I recently read a question about older cameras that don't have light =
meters or they are broken. These would be manual cameras that are ten =
years old or more or most professional cameras which don't come with =
light meters. What is the best way to determine exposure? =20

Answer: I have an old Pentax camera with no meter, plus several other =
cameras which don't have meters. All of the point-and-shoot cameras of =
today have complex metering systems which can get you into trouble if =
you don't think about light. Most cameras are totally automatic and =
don't even allow for any manual or battery-less exposures. I almost =
never use in-camera meters anymore for two reasons:
1. They are unreliable
2. They are set for middle gray, so if you are taking a picture of a =
white horse, the horse will turn out gray, not white. That's why they =
are called "averaging meters." If you are going to be using an older =
camera in the future I suggest that you do two things:=20

1. get a spot meter, one that can measure light along a narrow range of =
space (less than 10 degrees), and test it to see how it compares to a =
standard middle gray chart. Middle gray cards can be purchased for under =
$5.00. The Pentax 1 degree spot meter is the best meter of its type but =
there are many that work just fine and cost much less.

2. familiarize yourself with a zone chart which divides all light into =
ten zones, from pure white to jet black. Middle gray is in the middle =
and thus has a rating of zone 5. This system, called the zone system, =
invented by Ansel Adams years ago, works for both color and black and =
white. After all, light is light. Zone 1 is absolute black, zone 10 is =
pure white. Usually caucasian skin is rendered zone 6, which makes it =
useful for taking pictures of people's faces. The zone chart is actually =
divided light into ten distinct shades with a white one on one side, =
black on the other, gray in the middle. I have actually made a little =
semi-circular one, and glued it on the dial of my light meter. That way =
when I take a reading, I can immediately transfer the numerical reading =
to the chart, determine the zone, and set the aperture and shutter speed =
setting. This way I get extremely accurate exposures, every time.

When you are taking a photograph you should expose for the shadows. In =
other words, look for the darkest part of the scene, that you want to =
see detail, and set your exposure on your camera to render that shadow =
accordingly. Using your spot meter aim it at the subject to be =
photographed, pointing directly at the darkest shadow area where you =
want to see detail. The meter will give you a numerical reading which =
corresponds to an=20
f-stop or aperture setting on your camera. Remember, the meter will =
always expose for zone 5 or middle gray. If you want to render the =
shadow more accurately you should stop-down your aperture setting (go =
from f4 to f8 lets say) to make it darker. If you are taking a picture =
of a white barn door, you will want the door to appear lighter than =
middle gray, so you open up your aperture setting (go from f8 to f4 or =
whatever - the higher f -stop number the smaller the aperture or hole =
that lets light in).=20

In the case red birds, try to judge how the color of the bird compares =
to the gray card. Is it lighter or darker. Lighter by one zone, darker =
by one zone, etc. If you must use an in-camera meter, move your camera =
lens right up to the area to be exposed for, being careful not to put a =
shadow on the subject from the lens or your head or something. Try to =
get close enough to rule out any other shades, either darker or lighter. =
Keep in mind that this reading will suggest a middle gray. Adjust your =
shutter speed/f stop combination to give it more or less light.

Once you learn this system, you will not need to bracket, or use up =
rolls of film in the hopes of getting the right exposure. You will know =
for sure just how the picture will appear when developed. Know your =
camera, understand how it exposes. Take some test pictures of a gray =
card, at various settings, the aperture setting marked on a white sticky =
note on the gray card. See how the image matches the real gray card. If =
your camera tends to overexpose a little, take that into consideration =
next time you take pictures. Once you begin thinking in terms of light =
zones while exposing pictures, photography will become a breeze. =20

Also remember that exposure is a combination of shutter speed and =
aperture opening. If you close down the aperture you will increase depth =
of field or the amount of space that will be in sharp focus. The smaller =
the hole (aperture) the less light reaches the film but the greater the =
depth of field. To compensate for the less light, you need to lengthen =
shutter speed (give the film more light). This is critical when you are =
taking close-ups. If you are trying to see detail in an insect you will =
have to stop-down the aperture to say f16 or so in order to gain =
acceptable depth of field, otherwise only a tiny slice of the bug will =
be in focus. When you do this you will need to expose the film for more =
time in order to compensate. You may even need to use auxiliary flash. =
Photography is a game of give and take.

If you have any other questions, please give me a call. I would be happy =
to answer any questions you might have. I have spent many years both =
taking pictures with a variety of cameras and developing negatives and =
prints using the Ansel Adams methodology. Once learned, it is flawless. =
I really have to chuckle at so called professional photographers that =
advise folks to "just make lots of exposures, film is cheap." I want to =
ask them, "What kind of advice is that? What do you learn from this =
exercise?" Film is not cheap anymore, and besides, it is wasteful to =
use up rolls of film, loose all that silver, spend all that money on =
development, and have a bunch of prints that you end up throwing away. =
You will pay for your light meter in a year with the money you save on =
film.=20
________________________________
Dave Stiles
New Business Development
425-635-0709
ASIX, Inc.=20
visit our web site at www.asix.com