I am planning to go north again. This time reaching out a bit farther. Will
fly to Inuvik then hop over to Banks Is. This will be my 3rd visit to
Inuvik -- the 1st during the mid '70's when 3 of my sons (in 2 canoes) plus
2 other father/son combinations making up a party of 4 canoes paddled down
the Mackenzie from Ft. Simpson to Inuvik (800 miles). It took us 24 days in
contrast to Mackenzie who covered the same distance in 14 days.
The 2nd visit to Inuvick was 2 yrs ago to visit a Northern Arts Festival in
July and see Belukha Whales. No canoeing this trip. Plan to visit the art
festival again plus a trip to Banks Is. for Muskox etc. Now I understand
that summer canoeists on the river number 1K or more. While at Inuvik a
party of Germans were several days over due. Wilderness canoeing is quite
popular with Europeans according to Inuvikites.

When we paddled the river we saw no canoeists but did encounter 2 power
boats--- a man and wife hunting and a boat full of drunk natives shooting
indiscriminately across the water -some concern since we were in Grummen AL
canoes nice and shiney. We had to watch out for north slope tug traffic
since the prop produces a wake of 5/6' if close by. One could see the
white pilothouse that was raised ~50' above the deck as much as a half hour
or more before the tug plus barges could be sighted. There was plenty of
time to position ourselves for the bouncing a concern with only 4 or 5"'s of
freeboard. Birding in what is primarily an entrenched river system with
unstable banks from 50' to over a couple hundred or more was not the best
since venturing up to top put one into black fly country. We had not
prepared ourselves very well for their attack. Once on the river or
camping adjacent to it a constant wind either up or down stream provided an
essentially fly free environment.

One comment re the native soapstone carvers-- they come in 2 stripes those
that use power tools and wear masks while carving imported soapstone
(South American) the second group far fewer in number and older using
hatchets and files to shape native soapstone. This group is far more
interesting to watch to see a loon take shape.

Finally are there any Tweeters that have ventured northward to Banks Is ?
Any special needs to be met to be comfortable etc. How does the birding go
with guide or on your own? Thanks for any info Bill
William H. Lawrence PhD
Centralia WA
mail to: whl at localaccess.com