Part A - Good news about conservation
Part B - Trip Report
Part C - Question for the experts
Part D - Special for flyfishing birders

Just returned from my biennial trip to Christmas Island in the Republic of
Kiribati (pronounced kear-ee-bahs, with accent on first syllable). Best
known most recently as the first place on the planet to see the first
sunrise of the new milennium.

A. An economically marginal country, Kiribati has made an outstanding
contribution to the protection of Pacific seabirds. In the approximately 150
square miles of lagoon, three large islands have been set aside for nesting
birds with no human intrusion allowed. (One of these has a monument marking
the spot where Captain Cook came ashore on Christmas Day, giving the atoll
its name.) 17 species of birds nest on these islands. In addition, there are
dozens on smaller islands, many containing nesting birds. Although visitors
and residents are allowed to enter these, all are urged to be cautious to
avoid crushing the petral burrows or stepping on eggs. On Christmas Island
itself, there are two large colonies (in the hundreds of thousands) of Sooty
Terns, one within a few hundred yards of the "hotel." A $200 fine has been
imposed for anyone caught picking up eggs, a real temptation for residents
who see them as necessary subsistence food. The Republic has a staff of
naturalists based on the island to conduct studies and to assist in
enforcement.

There is considerable concern for the impact on birds as the Japanese begin
construction in January of a deep water jetty (not in the lagoon) and
docking facility in the uninhabited part of the Island for the eventual
construction of a landing strip for their new recoverable satellite lauching
vehicles. There will apparently be sonic booms each time a vehicle
approaches for a landing.

B. It is sheer delight to spend a week (only one flight in and out each
week) wading the flats and reveling in the bird life while pursuing the wily
bonefish. Seen on this trip were:

Terns (Sooty, Great Crested, Spectacled, and Fairy)
Noddies (Black, Brown, and Blue-Gray)
Boobies (Brown, Masked,and Red-Footed)
Petrals (Tahitian, Phoenix, Polynesian Storm-Petral)
Shearwaters (Christmas and Short-Tailed)
Red-Tailed Tropic Birds (seemingly the favorite victims of the Frigates)
Frigate Birds (Great and Lesser)

Highlight of the trip was a close encounter with four Bokikokiko, also known
as Christmas Warbler. We had been advised that if we stood still, they would
approach out of curiosity. It happened. Several came within three feet of
us, giving great photo opportunities. It is the only passerine on the island
and a favorite of the residents because it is the only insect-eating bird.

C. Question for the experts. Is there an explanation for the behavior of the
Sooty Terns? By the tens of thousands, they begin circling over the land
about four in the afternoon and continue without interruption for at least
twelve hours. The sound of their combined, constant calls is so loud as to
disturb sleep. The edges of the group swing out over the ocean but none
appear to be feeding during this time.

D. The bonefishing continues to be excellent. Strict enforcement of no-kill
rules for residents and visitors has had apparently good results. There is
some by-kill from the subsistence gill netting of Milk Fish, but stiff fines
are imposed if excessive kills occur.

It is a wonderful place to spend a week!

Grant Hendrickson
granth at halcyon.com
Redmond, WA