Tweeters,

I was so taken by the dramatic beauty of Icicle Creek near Leavenworth -
both on a macro level (the rugged granitic peaks), and, on close inspection
(the beautiful Tweedy's Lewisia); I couldn't help sending this on to fellow
Tweeters.

FOURTH OF JULY TRAIL ON ICICLE RIDGE
2 JULY 2000

Lucky Washington State Auduboners just finished a weekend conference at
Sleeping Lady Conference Center along Icicle Creek south of Leavenworth. The
theme for this Leadership Conference was: "Developing Conservation
Strategies for Important Bird Areas;" the weekend was inspiring, so much so
that Ellen and I charged off on a post-conference hike on Sunday
afternoon to revel in the sublime scenery and nature of this very rugged
part of the North Cascades.

Those of you who haven't had the distinct honor of staying at the Sleeping
Lady should leap at the next opportunity. It is in a wonderful setting of
Ponderosa Pines set amidst towering granitic peaks alongside rushing,
crystal-clear Icicle Creek. There are even many birds on the grounds: I
heard or saw nesting Spotted Sandpiper, Downy and White-headed Woodpecker,
Red-breasted and Pygmy Nuthatch, lots of Violet-green Swallows, and many
more.

But the best kept secret? The FOOD!!! The array and quality of the many
dishes was impressive. The food was so marvelous, even after only two days,
we felt the distinct need to really burn off some of those delicious
calories, so we looked on the Green Trails map for the nearest and steepest
trail. The "Fourth of July" Trail, appropriate for the weekend, was only a
short drive up the magnificent Icicle Creek Gorge, so that was our choice.

At 3 PM Sunday, we began the steep and interminable climb (Trailhead at
2,300', we turned around at 6,000') of this south-facing slope, initially
climbing through "West-side" forest and undergrowth, complete with a Ruffed
Grouse brood and several singing Winter Wren, Swainson's Thrush and
MacGillivray's Warblers. Abruptly, the slope steepened, and the trail
switchbacks for several thousand uphill feet through stately Ponderosa Pine,
alternating with wetter zones with rank shrublands and then again with
chaparral-like stands of deerbrush, attractive to a number of Nashville
Warblers. Though ascending without mercy for seemingly miles, only one
stretch of about a mile was truly steep and overgrown. Above this, the slope
lessened some, entering Douglas Firs, prime habitat for Hermit Thrush and
Townsend's Warbler, both of which were singing away.

At two spots on the ground in these Douglas Firs we encountered Tweedy's
Lewisia (Lewisia tweedyi), a truly exquisite wildflower. Birders have their
list of sought-after rarities. Botanists and native plant lovers have
theirs, too; Tweedy's Lewisia is certainly on this list! "This is a
relatively scarce plant. Do not disturb...possibly the most beautiful
wildflower you will find." ( Lyons, C.P. 1997. Wildflowers of Washington.
Lone Pine). We were alerted to these plants by a descending hiker who
claimed there was an unusual patch of "Bitterroot" by the trail ahead. Well,
I was skeptical, because Bitteroot (Lewisia rediviva), in my experience, is
a plant of shallow-soiled (lithosols) in Shrub-steppe Zone. Encountering
Tweedy's Lewisia reveiled the passing hiker was not entirely incorrect, for
the two plants are at least generically related. But, in our opinion,
Tweedy's Lewisia commands even more awe! The eight (usually) petals were a
beautiful salmon or pale pink, rising above a lusterous clump of vigorous
foliage, much in contrast to the seemingly deciduous-leaved Bitteroot. I
imagined no florist could conjure a more beautiful plant for a floral
display than Tweedy's Lewisia.

We kept on uphill, soon entering the Subalpine Zone, with Subalpine Firs,
Whitebark (sadly, a number of these pines were dead, probably on account of
White Pine Blister Rust...bad news for Clark's Nutcrackers) and Lodgepole
Pine, and many wildflowers. Though our sights were set on the summit of
Icicle Ridge above at 6,800,' it was ~ 6: 30 PM, and the daylight wasn't
going to last forever, so, reluctantly, we turned back at 6,000' after a
short survey of the rugged granite ramparts to the south, including
Mt.Stuart, the glacierets on the north aspects of the nearby "Dragontail,"
and began the long downhill grind, reaching the cat at 9 PM. By 11 PM, we
were
back in Wapato, discovering this incredible alpine area is only two hours
away (as close as Paradise on Mt. Rainier!), a world away from arid
south-central Washington.

Andy Stepniewski
Wapato WA
steppie at nwinfo.net