Subject: Grand Ronde Expedition - 1-3 June 2001
Date: Jun 6 16:48:44 2001
From: Andy Stepniewski - steppie at nwinfo.net


Birdyak and Tweeters,

The following account is of a Yakima Valley Audubon Societ-sponsored trip to
the extreme southeastern corner of Washington this past weekend.

GRANDE RONDE EXPEDITION
JUNE 1-3, 2001

Eight Yakima Auduboners trekked to the far southeast corner of Washington
this past weekend to experience the stunning Grande Ronde gorge country and
the nearby high eastern Blue Mountains. Some of us moteled in Clarkston and
drove up for the birding each morning. The rest camped at Field Springs
State Park at the lower edge of the forest belt. We found this to be a
surprisingly birdy site!

Several of us (Andy and Ellen Stepniewski, Bob Wahl, and John Hebert)
visited Kahlotus Lake out in the middle of the Columbia Basin en route to
check out the White-faced Ibis, a rare wanderer to Washington. Numerous
other waterbirds characteristic of the Columbia Basin lakes and marshes were
seen at this wonderful birding spot. Some of us also hit the city park in
Washtucna, a spot becoming known for the unusual. Here we found a shy
American Redstart.

The Grande Ronde region is a paradise for those who love arid, hot slopes
and dramatic scenery. Doubtless, geologists and rockhounds would be very
busy here. This part of Washington and adjacent Oregon is the source
("feeder dikes") for the immense Miocene basalt flows that cover the entire
Columbia Basin. More recent uplift of the Blue and Wallowa Mountains has
resulted in the carving one of the deepest gorges in North America (8,000')
by the Snake River only a few miles to the south in Oregon The depth of the
Snake and Grande River Canyons in Washington is only modestly less.
Apparently, the ancestral course of both these rivers was maintained as
uplift took place and they retained their course, downcutting through the
thousands of feet of Columbia Plateau basalts (in Washington that is, other
rocks outcrop to the south) in the landscape. Particularly dramatic were the
incised meanders along the lower Grande Ronde River, good evidence of this
streams "antecedent" nature.

Stunning vistas of deep gorges and into three states was reason enough to
visit this most remote corner of Washington. But, wait, we found more. An
interesting flora and fauna exists on these rocky slopes and forested
highlands. Elk, Mule Deer, Bighorn Sheep, and Black Bear are common, while
raptors and other birds of the cliffs are attractions, as well as a diverse
breeding-season avifauna in the riparian-lined drainages. Higher slopes of
the Blues are mantled with a picturesque mosaic of forested terrain,
seemingly never far from a rocky escarpment or gorge. These forests are
special in that some of the fauna has close affinities with Rocky Mountain
forms. Examples are Gray Jay and Golden-mantled Squirrel; these are more
similar to those in the Rockies of Colorado than to races occurring in other
parts of Washington.

As birders, we found much of interest here, too. It may be the Golden Eagle
capital of Washington; we saw at least five of these regal birds soaring and
hunting high overhead. If we had come in winter, we would have seen a number
of Bald Eagles, too. Birds of the cliffs and rocky slopes were well
represented, also, as were those of the riparian habitats, especially along
feeder streams to the main rivers. Our visit was timed at the height of the
breeding season, so these lush corridors were hosting many Neo-tropical
breeders.

Saturday morning dawned cool and breezy, so we descended from Field Springs
deep down into the Grande Ronde River. Here was scenery on a grand scale.
Along the road as we reached lower elevations, we found Red-eyed Vireo to be
surprisingly common in the dense, but narrow White Alder riparian along
Rattlesnake Creek, flanked by "desert" terrain. Warbling Vireo and Yellow
Warbler were also common. Everywhere in this region in brush patches on the
dry rocky slopes, the strident song of Lazuli Bunting was heard, even at
mid-day. At the river the Grande Ronde River Road, we went right (west) to
Cougar Creek Road. We walked this road, checking the riparian habitats along
the creek. Red-eyed Vireo was also present along lower stretches of this
road in the riparian. A number of migrants were noted here, including Vaux's
Swift, flycatchers, apparently concentrating in the lowest and warmest parts
of the region because of the inclement weather. Great views of an obliging
Yellow-breasted Chat were enjoyed here, too. Saturday morning was a good one
for mammals; we saw Elk, Mule Deer, Mountain Sheep, and a Black Bear. We
watched the bear charge a Mule Deer twice; it was apparently a healthy deer,
so the bear soon figured this wasn't going to work. Larry and Doris Robinson
kindly agreed to haul a big pile of firewood left from a hunter's camp back
up to camp for the comfort of the campers in the group. Thanks Larry and
Doris, we had a toasty fire that night!

We visited the Grande Ronde yet again by descending Schumaker Road, which is
even more dramatic, descending 3,000' in about four miles - going from moist
warbler-filled ravines to hot, dry slopes where relict groves of Hackberry
(Celtis reticulata) is the conspicuous tree. At the end of the road, at a
curious tunnel blasted through the cliff at river level, we spied on a band
of Mountain Sheep. We watched as these sturdy animals bolted up seemingly
vertical slopes, even the pint-sized lamb! Here were yet more Golden Eagles.
Here was the only spot during the weekend one could truly call warm. After
lunch, it was naptime.

Back at Field Springs State Park, we birded the open forests of Douglas-fir,
Grand Fir, Ponderosa Pine, and Western Larch (with a few Western Yew and Red
Cedar). This was a great place to relax and study many birds. We found
Ruffed Grouse, Great Horned Owl, Rufous Hummingbird, Williamson's Sapsucker,
Hairy, White-headed (uncommon in these mountains), and Pileated Woodpeckers,
Northern Flicker, Western Wood-Pewee, Hammond's, Dusky, and Pacific-slope
Flycatchers, Mountain and Chestnut-backed Chickadee, all 3 nuthatches, Brown
Creeper, Golden-crowned Kinglet, Swainson's and Hermit Thrushes, Cassin's
Vireo, Orange-crowned, Yellow, Yellow-rumped, Townsend's, and MacGillivray's
Warblers, Townsend's Warbler, Western Tanager, Lazuli Bunting, Chipping
Sparrow, and Cassin's Finch.Western and Mountain Bluebirds. were conspicuous
in the surrounding fields.

In the afternoon, we hiked the mile-long trail to Puffer Butte, an old
volcano, which gives spectacular view into three states and the Grande Ronde
River far below. From the broad, forested summit, we hiked south on a rocky
trail into the steppe vegetation below. This habitat was notable for its
many colorful wildlowers. Bird diversity was not high in this habitat; we
did find Gray Partridge, and Vesper and Lark Sparrows. Meanwhile, Gus and
Mary Pooler had yet another face-to-face encounter with a large Black Bear.
This beast even stood up on its hind legs to get its bearings, then charged
away!

Sunday we headed home via the high eastern Blue Mountains. At the Wenatchee
Guard Station, situated on a spectacular ridge crest. To the north were
forested slopes on north-facing aspects. To the south is an abrupt, rocky
escarpment dropping off thousands of feet towards the Grande Ronde River.
Here we spent some time searching for Green-tailed Towhee; this area was
where this species was 1st noted breeding in Washington, in the ravines
south of the ridge near the guard station. Recent records are few from this
site, probably because the towhee has been discovered in more accessible
sites since. Some of the northernmost Mountain Mahogany (Cercocarpus
ledifolius), a grayish-hued gnarled tree or tall shrub common on Great Basin
mountainsides to the south occur along the rocky ridges here. Further on,
we stopped at Misery Spring Campground. Here, at 6,200', the trees were
Subalpine Fir, Engelmann Spruce, and Western Larch. Ruby-crowned Kinglet was
abundant. We also found Hermit and Varied Thrushes, Winter Wren, Townsend's
Warbler, and Fox Sparrow. The meadow here was carpeted with Biscuit Root
(Lomatium triternatum) in full bloom; I have never encountered as dense a c
arpet of Lomatium before.

Sunset Point afforded spectacular views of the upper Tucannon River basin.
Although not in officially designated wilderness, there was no sign of
humankind in the basin below, a rare sight nowadays. This is a marvelous
place!

>From there, we continued to Umatilla Campground just within the Umatilla
National Forest. Ponderosa Pine dominated the forest here. We looked for
White-headed Woodpecker with no luck. We noted Pygmy Nuthatch, Yellow-rumped
Warbler, and Cassin's Finch here, though. It was cold as we lunched, so
everyone except Ellen, Bob, and myself headed directly home. We kept up the
pace, encircling the Blues, not adding any birds to the trip list except
Green-tailed Towhee on Biscuit Ridge, where we also had a memorable view all
the way to Mt. Adams and Mt. Rainier.

Bird species noted:

K - Kahlotus
W - Washtucna
P - Palouse Falls
F - Field Springs State Park
G - Grande Ronde River
B - High Blue Mountains

Eared Grebe - K
White-faced Ibis - 4, K
Canada Goose - G
Mallard
Blue-winged Teal - K, W
Cinnamon Teal - K, W
Northern Shoveler - K, W
Gadwall - K, W
Common Merganser - G
Ruddy Duck - W
Osprey - on Snake River west of Clarkston
Northern Harrier - F
Red-tailed Hawk - K, W, G, F, B
Golden Eagle - 5, G, magnificent!
American Kestrel - K, G, F
Gray Partridge - F
Chukar - G
Ring-necked Pheasant - G
Ruffed Grouse - F
Wild Turkey - F
California Quail - W
American Coot - K, W
Killdeer - K
Black-necked Stilt - K
American Avocet - K
Spotted Sandpiper - K, G
Wilson's Phalarope - Ring-billed Gull - K
Rock Dove - K, W, G
Mourning Dove - K, W, F, G
Barn Owl - I-82 at Prosser!
Great Horned Owl - F
Common Nighthawk - F
Vaux's Swift - G, many cruising about cliffs in cool of morning, presumably
from higher forests
White-throated Swift - P, none in G
Rufous Hummingbird - F
Belted Kingfisher - G
Williamson's Sapsucker - F, a constantly drumming male right in camp. Also B
Hairy Woodpecker - B
White-headed Woodpecker - F
Northern Flicker - W, G, F, B
Pileated Woodpecker - F
Olive-sided Flycatcher - F
Western Wood-Pewee - W, F, G
Willow Flycatcher - F
Hammond's Flycatcher - F, B
Dusky Flycatcher - F, G
Pacific-slope Flycatcher - F
Say's Phoebe - K, W
Western Kingbird, K, W, G
Eastern Kingbird - K
Horned Lark - F
Violet-green Swallow - G
Cliff Swallow - K, W, G, huge colony of many hundreds on the Grande Ronde
River with many engaged in nest building with mud from the riverside!
Steller's Jay - F, B
Black-billed Magpie - K, W, G
American Crow - G
Common Raven - W, F, G, B
Black-capped Chickadee - G
Mountain Chickadee - F, B
Chestnut-backed Chickadee - F
Red-breasted Nuthatch - F, B
Pygmy Nuthatch - F
Brown Creeper - F
Rock Wren - K, W, G
Canyon Wren - G
House Wren - K, W, F
Winter Wren - B
Marsh Wren - W
Golden-crowned Kinglet - F, B
Ruby-crowned Kinglet - B, very common in higher forests
Western Bluebird - F
Mountain Bluebird - F
Swainson's Thrush - F
Hermit Thrush - F
American Robin - F, B
Varied Thrush - B
Cedar Waxwing - G
European Starling - K, W, F, G
Cassin's Vireo - F
Warbling Vireo - F, G, B
Red-eyed Vireo - G, common in White Alders along feeder creeks!
Orange-crowned Warbler - F
Nashville Warbler - F
Yellow Warbler - F, G
Yellow-rumped Warbler - F, B
Townsend's Warbler - F, B
American Redstart - 1 1st-year male at W
MacGillivray's Warbler - F
Yellow-breasted Chat - G
Western Tanager - F, B
Black-headed Grosbeak - F, G
Lazuli Bunting - F, G, abundant at lower elevations!
Spotted Towhee - G
Green-tailed Towhee - 2 on "post-trip extension" to Biscuit Ridge
Chipping Sparrow - F, B
Vesper Sparrow - P, F
Lark Sparrow - F, steppe/pine edge on Puffer Butte hike
Fox Sparrow - B, meadow edge at Mountain Misery Campground
Song Sparrow - W, F, G
Dark-eyed Junco - F, B
Red-winged Blackbird - K, W
Western Meadowlark - K, W, P, F
Yellow-headed Blackbird - K, W
Brewer's Blackbird - K, W, P, F, G
Brown-headed Cowbird - G
Bullock's Oriole - K, G
Cassin's Finch - F, B
House Finch - W, P, G
Red Crossbill - F
Pine Siskin - F, B
American Goldfinch - W, P, F, G
Evening Grosbeak - F
House Sparrow - Dayton mini-mart!

Mammals of note:

Elk - G
Mule Deer - F, G, B
Bighorn Sheep - G
Black Bear - 1 in G, 1 at F

Andy Stepniewski
Wapato WA
Steppie at nwinfo.net