Subject: Texas Trip Part 1 (long)
Date: May 22 15:16:24 2001
From: Jack Stephens - jstephens62 at home.com


Apologies in advance for the cross-post on Birdchat:

TEXAS COAST
SPRING 2001

I recently made the pilgrimage to the Texas coast for spring migration. I
spent the week of April 26th through May 6th hitting birding hot spots from
the Louisiana to the Mexican border. I had originally planned on staying the
entire week on the upper coast hoping for a fallout of migrants, but the
lure of south Texas specialties proved too strong. I decided to travel to
the upper and lower coast, and it proved to be a decision I wouldn't regret.
I used the 1993 edition of the ABA guide authored by Harold Holt as my
primary guide, and again I was impressed by how helpful this series is. Many
things have changed since 1993 however, and I will highlight changes I saw
in this report.
DAY 1
After flying into Houston, I headed east to cover the upper coast. Along the
way I combed the rice fields around Winnie for Buff-breasted Sandpiper.
After chasing this bird several times in Washington without success, it was
a definite target bird for this trip. All the fields I could find were grown
up however, with rice far too tall for "grasspipers".
DAY 2
I dropped down to Anahuac refuge to begin birding in earnest. In the mud
flats I quickly picked up MALLARD, MOTTLED DUCK, BLUE-WINGED TEAL, LITTLE
BLUE HERON, SNOWY EGRET, NORTHERN SHOVLER, GREEN HERON, BLACK-CROWNED
NIGHT-HERON, WHITE and WHITE-FACED IBIS, WHIMBREL, BLACK-BELLIED PLOVER and
GULL-BILLED TERN. In the Willows, high winds may have kept the birds
hunkered down. I did find an ORCHARD ORIOLE along with a COMMON YELLOWTHROAT
and a LOUISIANA WATERTHRUSH, but not much else. Shoveler Pond was very
quiet, but on the way to High Island I stopped at the East Bayou Tract
section of the refuge. There I bumped into two other Tweeters; Bob Sundstrom
leading one of his VENT tours, and Carol Schulz fresh from the nearby ABA
convention. The East Bayou Tract is a great spot for shorebirds, with close
looks at both DOWITCHER species, both YELLOWLEGS, many BLACK-NECKED STILTS
along with CLAPPER RAIL, HUDSONIAN GODWIT and BAIRD'S, STILT, WHITE-RUMPED
and PECTORAL SANDPIPERS. The back part of the tract had a short grass field
that looked like good habitat for Buff-breasted Sandpipers, but none could
be seen. There is a trail leading back from the flooded fields into a strip
of woodland that could be promising for migrants, but I decided to head for
High Island instead.
As I arrived at the Louis Smith Woods at High Island, I felt like I was
entering hallowed ground. Lots of birders walking slowly, speaking in hushed
tones underneath the canopy of trees. However, the birding was good, but not
great. I walked around a bit and soon realized that all the activity was
right by the entrance at Purkey's pond. There were many NORTHERN CARDINALS,
ROSE-BREASTED GROSBEAKS, GRAY CATBIRDS, WOOD THRUSH, SUMMER and SCARLET
TANGERS, with smaller numbers of YELLOW-BILLED CUCKOO, INDIGO BUNTING,
PAINTED BUNTING, DOWNY WOODPECKER, BLUE JAY, PHILADELPHIA VIREO, WARBLING
VIREO, VEERY, SWAINSON'S THRUSH, AND BROWN THRASHER. The number of warblers
was somewhat disappointing, with a few TENNESSEE, YELLOW, and MAGNOLIA
WARBLERS seen, along with several AMERICAN REDSTART and a single
ORANGE-CROWNED WARBLER. Leaving High Island at the end of the day I swung
back by East Bayou at Aransas, and was delighted to find a beautiful pair of
FULVOUS WHISTLING-DUCKS, another target bird for this trip.
DAY 3
I got up before daybreak and headed of to try for Swainson's Warbler. The
ABA guide lists several spots for this elusive species, but the closest for
me was the Taylor's Bayou location northeast of Winnie. I parked by the
bridge off of Patterson Road, and immediately picked up two stray dogs as
birding companions. I'm worried that they won't help my chances of success,
but they were immune to my attempts to shoo them away. So all three of us
head into the palmetto understory. I listen awhile and hear nothing. I play
a few seconds of tape, and get an immediate response from a SWAINSON'S
WARBLER on the opposite side of the river. I can see him flitting around,
but not well enough for a visual identification. I think about it awhile and
decide not to try to call him in further. I leave my companions behind, and
head off for more migrants.
The previous day I had a tip on a good location just across the border in
Louisiana, Holleyman Reserve. I head over to Port Arthur, cross Sabine Pass
and head for Holly Beach. I was told that Holleyman has with a few isolated
Live Oak trees loaded with warblers, but despite my best efforts I can't
find it. I ask some locals in Holly Beach and they send me to a different
location, a nature walk at the Sabine National Wildlife Refuge. There is a
boardwalk into a marsh with SORAs calling all around, one right at my feet,
but none visible. Admitting defeat, I head back to Texas.
I decide to visit Sabine Woods, a migrant trap south of Port Arthur. As soon
as I walk into the oaks I realize this is a magical place. There are more
birds and fewer people than High Island. In addition to many of the birds I
have already seen, I quickly pick up GRAY-CHEEKED THRUSH, CHESTNUT-SIDED,
BAY-BREASTED, BLACKPOLL, BLACK-AND-WHITE WARBLER, and PROTHONOTARY WARBLERS,
NORTHERN WATERTHRUSH, RUBY-THROATED HUMMINGBIRD, BLUE GROSBEAK,
YELLOW-TROATED VIREO, RED-BELLIED WOODPECKER, and CAROLINA CHICKADEE. I just
miss a SWAINSON'S WARLBER that several people had seen at close range near a
small pond. After a few hours things quiet down, I head back to High Island
at the end of the day. It is very quiet in failing light, but I do manage to
see a KENTUCKY WARBLER at the photographers' blind.
DAY 4
I leave Winnie for Bolivar Flats. I walk out toward the beach and I soon
see NEOTROPIC and DOUBLE-CREASTED COMORANT, WHITE and BROWN PELICAN, SNOWY
and GREAT EGRET, GREAT BLUE HERON, MARBLED GODWIT, WHIMBREL, both
YELLOWLEGS, WILLET, RUDDY TURNSTONE, SHORT-BILLED DOWITCHER, SANDERLING,
SEMIPALMATED SANDPIPER, DUNLIN, AMERICAN GOLDEN-PLOVER, BLACK-BELLIED,
SEMIPALMATED, WILSON'S and PIPING PLOVERS, GULL-BILLED, CASPIAN, ROYAL,
COMMON, FORSTER'S and LEAST TERN. LESSER SCAUP and RED-BREASTED MERGANSERS
are in the bay, and while I'm walking out I have a surprising fly-by of
YELLOW-BILLED CUCKOO.
The ferry to Galveston Island fails to yield a Magnificent Frigatebird,
although one was seen later that day by other birders I ran into. I comb
Galveston Island for Buff-breasted Sandpipers, again to no avail. I do pick
up WHITE-TAILED KITE, BLACK SKIMMER and REDDISH EGRET for the trip, and the
BOAT-TAILED GRACKLES seen earlier begin to be replaced by GREAT-TAILED
GRACKLES. I drive the length of the island, continue through Freeport and
head with grim determination to Katy for my last shot at Buff-breasted
Sandpipers. I check into the Comfort Inn in Rosenberg, and head up to the
rice fields, not terribly optimistic about my chances. I pass a likely
looking field and I'm sure I see something move. I stop on the non-existent
shoulder and glass the field, only to see sandpiper-sized dirt clods. My
heart is sinking when one of the dirt clods moves, then another. There are
20-30 BUFF-BREASTED SANDPIPERS at the far edge of the rice field. They are
barely visible with binoculars and just identifiable with the scope. It is
one of those "Gotcha!" sightings; I resist the temptation to jump the fence
for a closer look and head up to the Big Cypress Creek location to try for
Eastern Screech Owl. I dip on the owl, but get several closer views of the
sandpipers along the way as a consolation prize. I also got my first trip
view of CRESTED CARACARA and my first life view of a duck on a telephone
wire, an BLACK-BELLIED WHISTLING-DUCK.
DAY 5
I leave at day break for Brazos Bend State Park. I am hopeful that I might
get a chance at some of the eastern woodland species I missed by not going
up to Big Thicket earlier in the trip. Unfortunately the forest is fairly
quiet. I do see my first WHITE-EYED VIREO, TUFTED TITMOUSE, CAROLINA WREN
and NORTHERN PARULA of the trip, and the swampy areas have PURPLE GALLINULE,
COMMON MOORHEN, WOOD DUCK and ANHINGA. I also see my first snake of the
trip, a tiny Copperhead in the trail that I almost step on while scanning
the treetops. I resolve to be more careful in the future.
At this point I decide to skip the Aransas Refuge and the Rockport/Fulton
area in an effort to have more time in south Texas. After several hours of
driving however, I decide to take a break and visit Hazel Bazemore park in
Corpus Cristi. I didn't expect to see much, it was a hot afternoon with a
moderately high wind, but I wanted a break from driving. I was pleasantly
surprised to see the park was quite active, with MOURNING, WHITE-WINGED and
INCA DOVES, RUBY-THROATED HUMMINGBIRD, WHITE-EYED VIREO, CEDAR WAXWINGS,
SUMMER and SCARLET TANANGERS, INDIGO and PAINTED BUNTING, and LINCOLN'S
SPARROW. The pond below the picnic area had BLUE-WINGED TEAL, MOTTLED DUCK,
LESSER YELLOWLEGS, SHORT-BILLED DOWITCHER, SPOTTED SANDPIPER, WILSON'S
PHALAROPE and FORSTER'S TERN. North of the pond, underneath the bluff I got
my first trip views of GREAT KISKADEE and BRONZED COWBIRD, along with scope
views of an Empid that I finally called as a WILLOW FLYCATCHER. The park was
so productive that I decided to spend the night and try it again in the
morning. With the remaining light I checked out Pollywog Pond, and added
COUCH'S KINGBIRD to my trip list.
DAY 6
I hit Hazel Bazemore at first light, and was surprised to find it very quiet
compared to the previous day. No new species, and several that I had seen
the previous day were no longer in evidence. On my way out, I passed a
EURASIAN COLLERED-DOVE on a wire by the entrance. This bird isn't even
mentioned in the ABA guide, and is a "green dot" rarity in the Sibley guide.
Apparently its range is expanding rapidly, and is now not an uncommon
species in the area.
I spent the rest of the day in the Kingsville area. Bird counts were low,
although I did see a singing LOGGERHEAD SHRIKE at the cemetery, and for the
trip I added only LADDER-BACKED WOODPECKER at Dick Kleberg park. The rest of
the area was fairly quiet, except for Mittag's Pond. Here is found flocks of
FULVOUS WHISTLING-DUCKS, ROSEATE SPOONBILL, and AMERICAN AVOCET( about 30-40
of each), and 50-60 WHITE PELICAN along with a dozen other water and
shorebirds. Quite a nice spot!
Day 7
Prior to leaving Washington I had signed up for the King Ranch birding tour.
The ABA guide says that only Victor Emanuel Nature Tours tours the ranch for
birds, but since 1994 Tom Langschied has run birding tours, scheduled
through the visitors center. We spent the day down at the Norias division of
the ranch, and Tom proved to be a great guide. By early afternoon we had
located many south Texas specialties including WHITE-TAILED HAWK,
FERRUGINOUS PYGMY-OWL, BUFF-BELLIED HUMMINGBIRD, COMMON GROUND-DOVE,
WHITE-TIPPED DOVE, GROOVE-BILLED ANI, GREATER ROADRUNNER, NORTHERN
BEARDLESS-TYRANNULET, VERMILION FLYCATCHER, GREEN JAY, LONG-BILLED THRASHER,
CURVE-BILLED THRASHER, VERDIN, LESSER GOLDFINCH, TROPICAL PARULA, BOTTERI'S
SPARROW, CASSIN'S SPARROW, HOODED ORIOLE, and AUDUBON'S ORIOLE. While casing
the Ani, someone noticed a large snake crossing the path in front of us. At
first I thought it was a constrictor, because of its large size and the way
it moved. On further inspection it turned out to be a HUGE Western
Diamond-backed Rattlesnake, somewhere around 6-7 feet in length and bigger
around than my upper arm. We quietly watched it move off into the scrub, it
never gave any indication that it knew we were there. Once again, I vowed to
be careful about where I was stepping in Texas.
We had car-pooled down to the Norias division, so instead of riding the
ranch van back to Kingsville I was able to head directly to Brownsville.
There I met Jim and Didi White, local birders in Brownsville who had kindly
offered to show me around. We met at Benson Park late that afternoon.
Waiting for dusk we saw a surprisingly late kettle of BROADWINGED HAWKS, and
I was lucky to get the CLAY-COLORED ROBIN that had been at the park for the
previous few days. There were many ALTIMIRA ORIOLE at the park, and as night
fell we saw the ELF OWL that nests in the snag near the trailer section of
the park. He seemed so small I don't think his face is much bigger than a
quarter.
DAY 8
The next morning, the grounds of the Fort Brown Holiday Inn was full of
GREEN PARAKEET, and several MUSCOVY DUCK were in the pond behind the hotel.
Didi and I spent a good part of the day looking for the Aplomado Falcons
that are being reintroduced in the area. While they are not an ABA
"countable" species, I was anxious to see one in the wild. Unfortunately,
despite our best efforts the falcon eluded us. They are most often seen on
Old Port Isabelle Road, and while we missed they falcon this road did prove
to be productive for many others species, including TAMAULIPAS CROW,
CHIHUAHUAN RAVEN, WHITE-SHOULDERED KITE, WHITE-TAILED HAWK, and CRESTED
CARACARA. It is also a good spot for Botteri's and Cassin's Sparrows by
their report. Laguna Atascosa NWR provided great views of BUFF-BELLIED
HUMMINGBIRDS at their feeders. A group of Peccaries here had babies with the
dried-up umbilical cords still attached! Sabal Palm Grove Sanctuary had at 8
LEAST GREBE, including on nest with a single eggs visible. We also had a
very nice mixed flock of warblers move through, with mainly YELLOW,
MAGNOLIA, BLACK-THROATED GREEN WARBLERS and a single male BLACKBURNIAN
WARBLER. Alas, I missed the Canada Warbler that everyone else saw in the
flock.
That afternoon I started back to Houston to fly home, and made good time
until I hit a severe thunderstorm half way back. I had to pull off the road
and wait for an hour until the rain lessened and visibility returned.
All told I had just over 200 birds for the trip, with 17 lifers and 12 first
sightings for the ABA area. Updates to the ABA guide and a species list are
below.

1. The Lane guide infers that accommodations are scarce in the High Island
area (pg. 39), but there is now a Holiday Inn and the Winnie Inn and Suites,
in addition to the Best Western where I was staying. I don't think it would
be hard to find a room even in peak season.
2. The Anahuac East Bay Bayou Tract is not listed in the guide, and is a
great spot for shorebirds
3. Interestingly, not only do the local people not know about
Holleyman-Sheely Sanctuary, neither does the Southwest Louisiana Convention
and Visitors Bureau. Their nature map to Southwest Louisiana doesn't list
it. Texas has done a much better job in marketing their birding areas. I
obtained directions to Holleyman-Sheely, from Carol Schulz after my return:
"From Port Arthur, drive east on Highway 82. Just before the town of Holly,
watch for a large petrochemical plant called Dynagy. Near it, on the gulf
side of the road is a small sign which says "Florida Beach". Another very
small sign says something like "Nature Sanctuary". Turn toward the water,
and take the first left (there is another sign here but it's hard to see).
Drive down this road ? mile to the sanctuary."
4. Sabine Woods (pg. 24) is a migrant trap to rival High Island, both by my
experience and by the reports of several birders in the area.
5. Katy-Hockley Road (pg. 68) is signed as "Avenue A" in the town of Katy.
It becomes Katy-Hockley Road outside of town.
6. Nueces River Park in Corpus Christi (pg. 111) is renamed Labonte Park.
7. Most of the chicken ranches listed in the Kingsville chapter (pg. 123)
are now closed, and are not a magnet for raptors.
8. King Ranch is now running its own birding tours, which are highly
recommended. Information is available at www.king-ranch.com, "visit the
ranch" tab, "nature tours" tab, or call 361-592-8055. Tours are currently
scheduled March-June and September-October
9. To get to Old Port Isabelle Road, take Rt. 100 east from Rt. 77/83
(Delorme pg. 88, I-6). After twelve miles, Rt. 100 takes a sweeping
left-hand curve. Old Port Isabelle is the unmarked dirt road that intersects
Rt. 100 on the right on this curve. It can also be reached from Rt. 511,
head west on 511 from Brownsville and look for the sign on your right for
the shooting range. Again the road is unmarked, and it is easy to over-shoot
the turn after you see the sign.
10. The telephone numbers for birding hotlines (pg. 7) have changed. They
are now:
Statewide 281-992-2757
Coastal Bend 361-883-7410
Rio Grande Valley 210-969-2731
Houston 281-992-2757
San Antonio 210-308-6788
Austin 512-926-8751

Jack Stephens
Edmonds, WA
jstephens62xx at home.com
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