On Wednesday (7/30/03), Harold & Karen Cottet, Joyce
Alonso, and myself journeyed up to Mt. Rainier N.P. I
had became so excited by the recent ptarmigan
sightings posted on the Tweeters, that I had to get up
there and see them for myself.

After a long drive through the scorching Columbian
Basin, it was nice to approach the Stevens Canyon
Entrance at "cool" 86 degrees compared to the 100+
temps on the east side. Since Three-Toed Woodpecker
and Black Swift were seen in the Ohanapecosh
Campground earlier this month, we birded this spot
first.

Although we walked around the campground loops for
over an hour, we failed to turn up any woodpeckers. In
fact, the only birds that we saw were a Dipper,
Stellar's Jay and family of Chestnut-backed
Chickadees. However, several Chickaree Squirrels and a
Cascade Golden-Mantled Ground Squirrel helped to cheer
us up.

As the Black Swift witching hour of 7-8 approached, I
was biting my lip wondering if had selected the best
spot. At about 7:15, I spotted the first swift. More
of them soon followed. At times the air seemed to be
filled with Black Swifts. I had at least 20 in view at
one time. There had to have been 40+ swifts feeding
over the bridge. By about 8:00 PM, they had mostly
disappeared, but we had a great show.

After our success with the swifts, we drove up toward
Paradise and parked at the first big overlook for Mt.
Rainier. The sunset's soft light bathed Mt. Rainier in
a soft rosy glow. Cute little Pikas seemed to be
enjoying the sunset on the mountain with us.

As one more Black Swift flew by us around 9:00 PM, we
felt that we had received a good omen for tomorrow's
adventure on the mountain.

On Thursday morning, we saw a Blue Grouse with at
least four young along the road. Hopefully, we would
see it's alpine cousin within the next few hours.

After reviewing the numerous posts on Tweeters, I
opted for the western (clockwise) approach to Panorama
Point. On the map, I didn't like the look of those
switchbacks indicating a steep ascent on the Golden
Gate Trail approach. In addition, we were well shaded
from the morning sun on large sections on the western
approach.

After beginning our ascent at 8:15, we arrived at
Panorama Point in about an hour and a half. On the way
up, we stopped to photograph wildflowers and Cascade
Golden-Mantled Ground Squirrels, to view Townsend's
Solitaires, Winter Wren, etc., and to gasp for air. As
long as you take advantage of those frequently placed
trail pull-outs and benches, I think that most anyone
can make it up there.

Upon our joyful arrival at Panorama Point, we ran
across a westside birder Ian McGregor. Ian had been up
there a couple of hours earlier, but had not turned up
any ptarmigan. Although, I announced that "We will
find them", I was looking for the nearest crevasse to
jump into in case I was mistaken.

After Ian elected to join our search party, I reread
the bird directions on Tweeters. While I took the lead
across the first large snowfield, we stopped
frequently to watch Gray-Crowned Rosy Finches feeding
young birds on the upslope escarpment.

As we approached a melt water creek that flowed across
the trail, I saw our quarry a mere three feet in front
of me. We were astonished to see a male White-Tailed
Ptarmigan strolling ON the trail. In addition, there
was ptarmigan hen just sitting inches away the trail
edge. In just two more strides, I would have stepped
on the cock ptarmigan!

The ptarmigan pair walked in and around the creek in a
most deliberate fashion. The pecked and ate green buds
and hung out with us for over twenty minutes. Rosy
Finches flew in and fed along the creek as well. We
had crippling views of all concerned.

Ptarmigan are kind of slow motion grouse. Apparently,
they are adapted to avoid sudden movements that might
attract the attention of a predator.

With their subtle shades of buff edging on gray and
white mottled plumage, white fluffy legs and feet, and
the male's red eye comb, they are truly beautiful
birds. The male extended his neck and gently cackled
once, but they were silent most of the time.

After some picture snapping, we tried some of the
other spots where ptarmigan chicks had been seen.
Although, we never did see any more ptarmigan for the
day we weren't complaining.

We began seeing American Pipits on the well-
described, extensive, green slope below the trail. On
the return leg down Golden Gate Trail, we saw juncos,
one Lincoln's Sparrow, Chipping Sparrow (missing from
the park's bird checklist), Golden-Crowned Kinglet,
and Yellow-Rumped Warbler.

Along the switchback section of the trail, we were
amused to see Pika's running around with long green
succulents sticking out of both sides of their mouths.
These alpine haymakers were obviously "making hay
while the sun still shined".

Aside the birds and mammals, there were many
butterflies flitting over a profusion of wildflowers
such as lupines, larkspur, Bistort, Lewis
Monkeyflowers, Arnica, Mountain Aster, Magenta
Paintbrush, Jeffrey's Shootingstar, Sitka Valerian,
Avalanche Lilly, Marsh Marigold, Partridgefoot, Bird's
Beak Pedicularus, False White Hellbore, Spreading
Phlox, and both Pink and White Heathers. Some of the
moist subalpine meadows were redolent with the
fragrance of these wildflowers.

Of course, the unobstructive views of Mt. Ranier, Mt.
Hood, and Mt. Adams, and Mt. St. Helen's were in
themselves probably worth the journey up to Panorama
Point. Come on up, the weather is fine.

On the way back down the mountain, we walked through
the Patriarch Grove trail. Amongst the ancient trees,
we didn't see many birds, but it was a pleasant way to
unwind after the long mountain hike. A Pacific-Slope
Flycatcher called from the shaded canopy, a Winter
Wren scolded us, and a Kingfisher patrolled the creek.

East of Chinook Pass, we checked another spot for
Three-toed Woodpecker, but we couldn't turn any. The
habitat certainly looked good, but once again we
dipped on this target species.

We had to settle for Olive-Sided Flycatcher, Evening
Grosbeak, and brightly colored male Golden-Crowned
Kinglet. Farther down 410, we saw one male
Williamson's Sapsucker.

We certainly had a fabulous time on this trip. I want
to thank all the wonderful Tweets and Inlanders who
contributed their birding tips to me. I will certainly
keep all their suggestions for any future trips out to
this region.

Gina Sheridan
Spokane, WA














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