September 23rd

After settling into Ndutu Lodge the night before, we enjoyed looks at
the FISHCER'S LOVEBIRD and GREY-BREASTED SPURFOWL that would come to
their water pool outside the dining room. The drive that day was
somewhat quiet bird-wise; the lake behind Ndutu Lodge was dry, but we
still managed good looks at SECRETARY BIRD and EASTERN CHANTING GOSHAWK.
Unlike Ngorongoro, we were entirely alone near Ndutu when we spotted a
Cheetah stalking a lone immature Impala. The cat and the antelope stared
at each other while the cat moved very slowly forward. When he finally
charged, the Impala ran towards us, into trees and away. The Cheetah
walked over to the road, plopped down in front of us to recover from the
chase. After awhile he moved off the road so we could continue, allowing
very close views. Two kilometers later we spotted a second Cheetah
stalking a head of Grant's Gazelle. She was able to hide and let them
approach her. After an hour when she finally charged, she was on one
gazelle in literally 2-3 seconds. She dragged her kill to some clumps of
grass where she started to feed, all the while keeping a watchful eye
for any predators that might come to take her prize away. Watching this
hunt was one of the most memorable parts of the trip. It occurred to me
later that an all-out birding group probably would have not stopped and
spent the time to watch the drama.

Best Bird BLACK-LORED BABBLER, my 300th bird of the trip
Memorable Moment Cheetah hunt

September 24th

This day we had a grueling drive across the Serengeti to Speke Bay
Lodge, a total of 10 hours in the van. The western Serengeti was more
scenic than the eastern half, with more trees, hills and rivers. Anthony
and Geitan managed to find a WATER THICK-KNEE and STRIATED HERON along
the river edge. Anthony's sharp eyes picked up a YELLOW-THROATED
LONGCLAW hidden in the grass as we bounced along. We were happy to reach
the western entrance to the park, pull onto tarmac road and make our way
to Speke Bay Lodge on the shores of Lake Victoria.

Best Bird YELLOW-BILLED STORK. One fishing in the
Grumeti River
Most Difficult Bird AFRICAN GOLDEN WEAVER. One perched, also
river-side.
Biggest Miss Probable African Cuckoo, seen flying dead
away from us in the car, but not
a good enough view to identify
Highlight Two female lion with four cubs and kill, just
off the road in the
Serengeti

September 25th

I was starting to question the wisdom of the long drive to Speke Bay
after the previous day's drive. Getting up the next day however, the new
birds just started rolling in, and then it seemed like a capital idea.
Anthony and I quickly had both RED-CHESTED and SCARLET- CHESTED
SUNBIRDS, along with BLACK-HEADED GONOLEKS, SLENDER-BILLED WEAVER, and
SWAMP FLYCATCHER. On the shore of the lake were numerous GLOSSY ISIS,
HADADA IBIS, RUFF, PIED KINGFISHER and WATTLED LAPWING. I managed to
find one TEMMICK'S STINT in a group of LITTLE STINTS, while GREY-HEADED
GULLS could be seen with the scope in the distance. I managed to find a
few GULL-BILLED TERNS and WHITE-WINGED TERNS amongst the flocks of
WHISKERED TERNS. Anthony is surprised to learn that we have Gull-billed
Tern in the US.
Anthony and I bird the grounds of the lodge and in addition to SPOTTED
THICK-KNEE he is pleased to pick up a HEULGIN'S COURSER. The courser
hunkers down and allows me to approach if I move very slowly ("Like a
cheetah" Anthony jokes) and I get great photos.
That afternoon Anthony comes to get me, he says we are going out looking
for nightjars. "But it is daylight, shouldn't we wait for dusk?" I ask.
"No, we look for them on the ground" Anthony replies. So we stand under
some trees, looking at the leaf-litter not 20 feet away with our
binoculars. Apparently this makes them easier to see. Within a few
minutes we pick up both SQUARE-TAILED and SLENDER-TAILED NIGHTJARS, and
I learn a new birding technique.
We happen to be at Lake Victoria during the five days a year that the
lake flies are mating. Within 100 yard of the shore, the bushes are
literally covered with mosquito-sized flies. They don't bite, but as you
walk by they swarm and fly into your eyes, ears, and nose. Clouds of
them look like dense fog in the distance. We are there on day 2 and 3 of
the flies, and as some die there are piles of dead flies underneath the
walkway lights at Speke Bay. The ANGOLA SWALLOWS are working as hard as
they can to take their toll on the flies, but there are so many that it
hardly makes a dent.
The flies are an annoyance, but also quite a spectacle of nature. I try
to imagine the number of flies if they are covering the whole of Lake
Victoria, and my brain can't handle numbers that quickly become
astronomical.

Best Bird SCARLET-CHESTED SUNBIRD
Hardest Bird HEUGLIN'S COURSER
Memorable Moment Lake Victoria lake fly eruption